AHA & BHA: The Ultimate Guide to Chemical Exfoliation – Dermshop

Choosing the right acid chemical exfoliants is essential for a professional-grade skincare routine and we're here to break down the difference between Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) to help you achieve your clearest skin all while improving skin texture and radiance. AHAs and BHAs are both chemical exfoliants that improve skin texture, tone, and clarity but they each serve different purposes:

AHAs (eg: Glycolic Acid): Water-soluble acids that work on the skin's surface for anti-aging, brightening, and smoothing fine lines. This chemical exfoliant is great for those wondering how to get rid of textured skin.
BHAs (eg: Salicylic Acid): Oil-soluble acids that penetrate deep into pores to control acne, treat blackheads, and reduce excess oil.

What is Chemical Exfoliation?

Chemical exfoliants use mild acids to dissolve the bond or the "glue" holding dead skin cells together which reveals regenerated and radiant skin underneath without the harsh friction of physical exfoliants like beads or kernels.

Physical exfoliants manually break down the surface of your skin and are available in the form of scrubs, brushes or dermabrasion. Physical exfoliants can cause micro-tears in your skin and may not be as effective as chemical exfoliants as they do not penetrate your skin.

Now, let's determine whether AHAs or BHAs is best for your skin concerns.

AHAs: The Surface Smoothers

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids that are typically derived from sugary fruits or milk - but can also be synthetically created and work primarily on the skin's surface, peeling away the surface of your skin so that new, more evenly pigmented skin cells may generate and take their place making AHA great for hyperpigmentation and sun damage.

Chemical exfoliant best for dry skin, sun damage, fine lines, and uneven texture.
Common AHAs:
- Glycolic Acid: Smallest molecule, penetrates deepest for fast results. You can use medical-grade glycolic acid for dark spots and peels.
- Lactic Acid: Larger molecule, gentler, and acts as a humectant (hydrator). Lactic acid is a gentle AHA for sensitive skin.
- Mandelic Acid: Very gentle, great for sensitive skin and hyperpigmentation so you can use mandelic acid for rosacea.
The Benefit: They polish away dry flakes and boost natural moisture levels.

BHAs: The Deep Cleaners

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble acids which allows them to penetrate your skin, bypassing surface sebum and get into your pores to clear out debris.

BHA Exfoliant Best for Oily skin, acne, blackheads, and enlarged pores.
Common BHAs: The most popular form, Salicylic Acid is used for enlarged pores and its anti-inflammatory properties. Look for salicylic acid acne treatments and cleansers.
The Benefit: They dissolve the "plugs" that lead to breakouts and calm redness associated with acne.

While you can use both AHAs and BHAs together, you should proceed with caution to avoid over-exfoliation. You can alternate the acids or use them in targeted areas. There are some other safety tips to keep in mind when introducing chemical exfoliants into your skincare routine.

Wear SPF Daily: Acids make your skin more photosensitive and vulnerable to sun damage which is why it is critical to wear your sunscreen daily.
Start Slow: Begin with 1–2 applications per week first.
Watch the pH: Acids work best at a specific pH level (usually 3.0–4.0). Avoid mixing them with high-pH products like certain cleansers immediately as this can cause irritation.

Both AHAs and BHAs offer transformative benefits for skin texture and tone. However, for a targeted approach, incorporating the right acid chemical exfoliant for your specific skincare concerns can revolutionize your results.

Remember, skincare isn't one-size-fits-all. If you're wondering AHA vs BHA: which is better for your skin - a dermatologist can provide a professional recommendation tailored to your skin’s unique concerns. If you're ready to discover the best chemical exfoliant for you, you can shop our best selling AHAs and BHAs here.

AHAs Bestsellers:
Vivier Exfoliant Forte is an exfoliating lotion that helps improve your skin texture and tone

ZO Skin Exfoliation Accelerator helps remove dead skin cells while soothing skin and is a medical grade chemical exfoliant

BHAs Bestsellers:

Vivier Medicated Wash Cleanser is an oil-free salicylic acid cleanser for acne and thoroughly cleans skin. This is one of our best salicylic acid products

ZO Skin Complexion Clarifying Serum is a decongesting serum for blemish-prone skin

Multi-acid BHAs and AHAs Bestsellers:
ZO Skin Complexion Renewal Pads help decongest pores and remove surface oil

Rejuv Dual Action Toner: an alcohol-free toner that brightens and exfoliates skin
SkinMedica AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser helps improve skin texture and tone while cleansing your skin