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AHAs & BHAs: The Ultimate Guide to Chemical Exfoliation
Choosing the right acid chemical exfoliants is essential for a professional-grade skincare routine and we're here to break down the difference between Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) to help you achieve your clearest skin all while improving skin texture and radiance. AHAs and BHAs are both chemical exfoliants that improve skin texture, tone, and clarity but they each serve different purposes:
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AHAs (eg: Glycolic Acid): Water-soluble acids that work on the skin's surface for anti-aging, brightening, and smoothing fine lines.
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BHAs (eg: Salicylic Acid): Oil-soluble acids that penetrate deep into pores to control acne, treat blackheads, and reduce excess oil.
What is Chemical Exfoliation?
Chemical exfoliants use mild acids to dissolve the bond or the "glue" holding dead skin cells together which reveals regenerated and radiant skin underneath without the harsh friction of physical exfoliants like beads or kernels.
Physical exfoliants manually break down the surface of your skin and are available in the form of scrubs, brushes or dermabrasion. Physical exfoliants can cause micro-tears in your skin and may not be as effective as chemical exfoliants as they do not penetrate your skin.
Now, let's determine whether AHAs or BHAs is best for your skin concerns.
AHAs: The Surface Smoothers
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids that are typically derived from sugary fruits or milk - but can also be synthetically created and work primarily on the skin's surface, peeling away the surface of your skin so that new, more evenly pigmented skin cells may generate and take their place.
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Best for: Dry skin, sun damage, fine lines, and uneven texture.
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Common AHAs:
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Glycolic Acid: Smallest molecule, penetrates deepest for fast results.
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Lactic Acid: Larger molecule, gentler, and acts as a humectant (hydrator).
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Mandelic Acid: Very gentle, great for sensitive skin and hyperpigmentation.
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The Benefit: They polish away dry flakes and boost natural moisture levels.
BHAs: The Deep Cleaners
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble acids which allows them to penetrate your skin, bypassing surface sebum and get into your pores to clear out debris.
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Best for: Oily skin, acne, blackheads, and enlarged pores.
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Common BHAs: Salicylic Acid is the most popular form, known for its anti-inflammatory properties.
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The Benefit: They dissolve the "plugs" that lead to breakouts and calm redness associated with acne.
While you can use both AHAs and BHAs together, you should proceed with caution to avoid over-exfoliation. You can alternate the acids or use them in targeted areas. There are some other safety tips to keep in mind when introducing chemical exfoliants into your skincare routine.
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Wear SPF Daily: Acids make your skin more photosensitive and vulnerable to sun damage which is why it is critical to wear your sunscreen daily.
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Start Slow: Begin with 1–2 applications per week first.
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Watch the pH: Acids work best at a specific pH level (usually 3.0–4.0). Avoid mixing them with high-pH products like certain cleansers immediately as this can cause irritation.
Both AHAs and BHAs offer transformative benefits for skin texture and tone. However, for a targeted approach, incorporating the right acid chemical exfoliant for your specific skincare concerns can revolutionize your results.
Remember, skincare isn't one-size-fits-all. If you're still unsure, a dermatologist can provide a professional recommendation tailored to your skin’s unique concerns. If you're ready to discover the best chemical exfoliant for you, you can shop our best selling AHAs and BHAs here.
AHAs Bestsellers:
Vivier Exfoliant Forte is an exfoliating lotion that helps improve your skin texture and tone
ZO Skin Exfoliation Accelerator helps remove dead skin cells while soothing skin
BHAs Bestsellers:
Vivier Medicated Wash Cleanser is an oil-free salicylic acid cleanser for acne and thoroughly cleans skin
ZO Skin Complexion Clarifying Serum is a decongesting serum for blemish-prone skin
Multi-acid BHAs and AHAs Bestsellers:
ZO Skin Complexion Renewal Pads help decongest pores and remove surface oil
Rejuv Dual Action Toner: an alcohol-free toner that brightens and exfoliates skin
SkinMedica AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser helps improve skin texture and tone while cleansing your skin